If the black flags were my first surprise that day, my second surprise came when Granduncle Ron briefed me as to how we would get out past the turbulent stormy waves that were smashing against the beach. As you will see, those waves were very much part of the reason the warning flags had been posted.

Now, remember, I’m nine years old… a very healthy boy but never-the-less, nine. Granduncle Ron explained it like this, ”Ok Tommy, I’ll take the canoe out past the breaking waves. While I’m doing that, you swim out there and meet up with me. Then, jump in the canoe and we’ll get going.”

Alarmed, I said, “Say what? You want me to swim through that surf and meet up with you?” “Yah, you should be ok.” I had done quite a lot of body surfing even for my young age. So, only because it was Ron Drummond coaching me, I went for it.

It was truly the harshest surf I have ever been in. My desperate swim strokes were met with violent explosions of foaming water, seemingly a cauldron-like swirl. But, somehow, I made it through the explosive surf. And yet, I must say, with all my prior and subsequent experience body surfing, this was the worst. And if it weren’t for the legendary Ron waiting for me in a less ferocious sea, I knew enough at nine to know this was not good. I certainly otherwise would have backed off.

We paddled out about 3/4 of a mile from shore into relatively serene water. From there, turbulence behind us, we began our ten-mile excursion.

I can’t tell you how pleased I felt being with Uncle Ron (as I called him) now free of that cauldron, now just casually owning the ocean. I was nine and I knew this was a special day. I was really amazed at the relative glide of the canoe. Uncle Ron was the best there was. I knew that had a huge amount to do with our progress.

And after an hour or so we stopped paddling, baited our hooks and cast our lines. I honestly can’t recall if we had good luck or any luck at all. But I can tell you that I was euphoric…just havin’ a ball.

After a while we reeled in our lines and continued the journey. It seemed way too soon our effortless (even fun) strokes of our paddles brought us to a point perhaps the 3/4 mark of the total distance we would travel before we would arrive at “Killer Dana”, Dana Point, CA.

I was amazed at our relatively effortless progress. Things couldn’t be better. This time we stopped to dive to see what we could find down below. In this location the water was about 30ft deep. I never dove that deep before. I had been in 12ft deep swimming pools before and felt some pressure while on the bottom. But this was 2-1/2 times that deep.

Uncle Ron coached me. We both dawned mask and fins. I was blown away that, without a tank, we were able to swim down near the bottom. What a site it was. Uncle Ron certainly knew exactly what he was doing, where he was taking me and had some certainty of what we would experience while diving.

We came upon abalone, octopus, and schools of fish as well as a substantial amount of shell fish.  Clearly, I have never seen such magnificent sea life since that day…not even in Hawaii.

Next stop was Killer Dana! Oh boy! Now it was time for more paddling. Paddling was so easy and so fun. Thanks to Uncle Ron’s incredible physique and abilities, I could recognize our substantial forward progress with each of our strokes. Granduncle Ron was a big man, 6ft-6in tall, incredibly fit as you would imagine a champion to be.

In those days a number of years prior to Dana’s conversion into a break-water and marina resort, Dana laid claim to a world-famous surf with excitingly huge waves perhaps even as big as a house. It had been quite a magnificent day and now we were at Dana setting up for the BIG ONES.

Uncle Ron was advising me how we would proceed. In the water surrounding us were board surfers. More toward shore there were body surfers. We set up about a quarter mile out from shore. Uncle Ron explained that we were looking for the largest waves…Waves that we could ride a long distance. He said we must be careful to assure that no wave would break on top of the canoe. If a big wave breaks on top of the canoe, the canoe will most likely break in two and somewhat disintegrate.

He continued explaining our strategy…that if it were to appear as if a wave was going to break onto the canoe, I was to dive head-first down into the water as deep as possible when I was alerted to do so.

He went on to say, “While you’re diving down into the water, I’ll scuttle the canoe by rolling out of the canoe and inverting it upside down.” He went on, “Then I will lift the canoe out of the water as if it were a spear and dart the canoe down under the water as far as possible so that the wave passes over the canoe.” “When the wave has gone by, the canoe will have popped up out of the water. Then, we will right the canoe, jump in and have some more fun.” By the way, Granduncle Ron was the father of this technique which incorporated another of his famous maneuvers he coined as “The Capistrano Flip”.  It was this technique Granduncle Ron developed, that astounded the surfing world as many were in complete disbelief that a submerged canoe could be righted and re-engaged so quickly.

Well, it seemed an exciting plan and I have no doubt Uncle Ron had this spear technique down but, there we were having the most fun imaginable riding a lot of terrific waves when that really big one caught us out of position. This one was headed for us…not one we could ride nor ignore but a dangerous and great swell.  Dana was legendary for it’s phenomenal waves. This was one such colossus. So, Ron shouted, “Dive Tommy Dive”! I dove down as fast and as deep as I could, while above water, Ron, all 6ft-6in of him rolled and speared the canoe down under the water. This turned out to be an unfair match as the bow of the canoe crashed into the side of my head. Funny thing is it didn’t seem to hurt too bad. Go figure. I surfaced well aware I had been struck by the canoe.